I use brakes on all of my rifles, except maybe one. Makes them sooooo much easier to shoot, find accuracy etc.
A shim set like the accuwasher, works fine, you just need to find the one that works for your barrel... and for the second barrel, well you might have already used the one you need... been there!! For the set I have I've tied the similar ones together, it's a pain to sort thru the bunch just out of the bag (do I want the I-iii or the II-ii, or what...?)
So if there was an accuwasher setup with a few thin ones (0.001 and/or 0.002) thrown in, so you can be sure you'll be able to do more than one barrel with the set, well that would be really good. The accuwashers cost a fair bit, kinda spendy as shims go. I had a couple other sets with just some relatively unmarked 0.001's, 0.003's, 0.007's, 0.028 and they did ok, but again you'll need a combo, not just a single one like accuwasher. Accuwashers seem to be re-useable even after torquing, one advantage there.
Problem with most shims (skinny and crush) IMO is technically they are only good for one use. If you torque them they will be distorted when you loosen and take off the muzzle device...
Other big disadvantage to shims is you need to play with them to find the right setup, then torque it down.
I've switched over to all jam nuts... well maybe one accuwasher is still in use. This way if I want to use a suppressor I can take my brake off at the range (pair of pliers and small crescent for the knurled ones) and thread on the suppr. Using that 419 adapter thingabob which is a great idea for spinning up the suppressor. Then switch back. I don't like the suppr's "brake" by itself -- they don't work as well as the VG6's. I also put a small dab of vinyl paint at TDC on both the VG6 and the barrel tip ("match marks" right before the threads end) so I can "time" the VG with the pliers/crescent, eazy-peazy, even a cave man can do it.
I should add that I only use brakes that have some flats on them too, typically at least parallel ones in the vertical. No pliers on hex or flats... only for the knurled jams.
A shim set like the accuwasher, works fine, you just need to find the one that works for your barrel... and for the second barrel, well you might have already used the one you need... been there!! For the set I have I've tied the similar ones together, it's a pain to sort thru the bunch just out of the bag (do I want the I-iii or the II-ii, or what...?)
So if there was an accuwasher setup with a few thin ones (0.001 and/or 0.002) thrown in, so you can be sure you'll be able to do more than one barrel with the set, well that would be really good. The accuwashers cost a fair bit, kinda spendy as shims go. I had a couple other sets with just some relatively unmarked 0.001's, 0.003's, 0.007's, 0.028 and they did ok, but again you'll need a combo, not just a single one like accuwasher. Accuwashers seem to be re-useable even after torquing, one advantage there.
Problem with most shims (skinny and crush) IMO is technically they are only good for one use. If you torque them they will be distorted when you loosen and take off the muzzle device...
Other big disadvantage to shims is you need to play with them to find the right setup, then torque it down.
I've switched over to all jam nuts... well maybe one accuwasher is still in use. This way if I want to use a suppressor I can take my brake off at the range (pair of pliers and small crescent for the knurled ones) and thread on the suppr. Using that 419 adapter thingabob which is a great idea for spinning up the suppressor. Then switch back. I don't like the suppr's "brake" by itself -- they don't work as well as the VG6's. I also put a small dab of vinyl paint at TDC on both the VG6 and the barrel tip ("match marks" right before the threads end) so I can "time" the VG with the pliers/crescent, eazy-peazy, even a cave man can do it.
I should add that I only use brakes that have some flats on them too, typically at least parallel ones in the vertical. No pliers on hex or flats... only for the knurled jams.