6 ARC bolt
#1
Hi, First post from here in Colorado. I'm in the process of building an ARC and was wondering which AR bolt to go with. I'm finding Sanders armory and Maxim are both in stock. Are they decent bolts? It will be used with a Monster 20" barrel. Thanks for any advice!!
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#2
I don't have any experience with Sanders, but the Maxim has a good reputation with the Grendel crowd and it is what I am running in my ARC. So far, so good.
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#3
Not really an AR guy here though May I ask about what are the newer alternatives hav going for them over Alexander Arms. What I feel a fairly strong understanding for, is the material choice and heat treat for optimum strength required for a Grendel / ARC bolt. if no one was able to convince me otherwise I expect Alexander arms may be where I may focus my initial exploration.
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#4
(05-03-2021, 09:07 PM)Revelation80751 Wrote: Hi, First post from here in Colorado. I'm in the process of building an ARC and was wondering which AR bolt to go with. I'm finding Sanders armory and Maxim are both in stock. Are they decent bolts? It will be used with a Monster 20" barrel. Thanks for any advice!!

I'm using a Sanders Bolt. No complaints so far, but I'm only at 40 rounds, LOL. Two things about the Extractor, that are different from my other "normal" 5.56/.300BLK builds: The Extractor Spring just sits in the cup - it doesn't have to be twisted in like normal. I emailed Sanders, and the owner replied - they make their own stuff, and made the cup larger to prevent binding, according to him. Also, getting the Extractor Pin out or in, is a bear - you have to squeeze the bejeezus out of it. I've had Toolcraft Extractors do the same thing, so hopefully it will loosen up with use. I don't reload, but the rim of the case gets slightly rough where the extractor grabs it. No idea on spring power, but there is a Viton O-Ring and Spring Buffer in there.
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#5
You probably don't need the o-ring. Several threads on 65Grendelcom, also you can buff or de-thorn the extractor endpoint/teeth to smooth out the treatment of the brass rims.
There's also the Monster bolts sold on here, excellent ones, I have a couple myself. 55 + shipping if I recall.
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#6
(05-04-2021, 02:45 PM)grayfox Wrote: You probably don't need the o-ring.  Several threads on 65Grendelcom, also you can buff or de-thorn the extractor endpoint/teeth to smooth out the treatment of the brass rims.
There's also the Monster bolts sold on here, excellent ones, I have a couple myself.  55 + shipping if I recall.


Good to know thanks.
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#7
Thanks for all the advice, I actually want a Monster bolt but they are out of stock unless someone here knows something I don't. Sanders and Maxim seem to have good reputations, and Alexander is great, just not available. Cant wait to get this build done!! well stocked up on ammo.......almost there!!
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#8
(05-04-2021, 01:03 PM)SuaSponte Wrote: I'm using a Sanders Bolt. No complaints so far, but I'm only at 40 rounds, LOL. Two things about the Extractor, that are different from my other "normal" 5.56/.300BLK builds: The Extractor Spring just sits in the cup - it doesn't have to be twisted in like normal. I emailed Sanders, and the owner replied - they make their own stuff, and made the cup larger to prevent binding, according to him.

You'll be fine with a Sanders bolt, I used to sell the exact same one.

I agree with others that though the O-ring was added because Navy SEALS added it to solve a specific problem with their M4s, popular demand has also wanted it added to all civilian ARs.

Having said that, I do not consider it necessary for 6ARC/65G bolts.
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